29 March 2010

Bukit Udal

I just spent a great weekend at Bukit Udal, in the Tutong District of Brunei, in a trip organised by the Brunei Nature Society. The campsite is shown here.The idea is you are supposed to sleep in the wooden building in the middle of the water; but there were too many of us, so most of us actually slept in the tents that you can see on the left.

One of the great things for me (quite apart from the splendid trek through the forest on Sunday morning) was that our Dusun guide, Benson, was more than willing to speak Malay to me, and in fact he delighted in telling lots of stories about the history of the region while playing his traditional lute. Now, I can't say I understood them all, but it was fun to hear him tell them.

One basic problem with speaking Malay here is what to use as the second person singular pronoun, 'you'. My textbooks tell me it is anda, but that is way too formal. Earlier this month when we went to Bario in Malaysia, our guide suggested that kamu was best. In Bukit Udal, however, Benson insisted that kamu is a plural pronoun, and he said that kita is appropriate for singular 'you'. Indeed, that seems to be the norm in Brunei.

The trouble is that kita means 'we' in Standard Malay. It really gets quite confusing to start a conversation when you can't work out what word to use for such a basic concept as 'you'.